Recently, my friends and I visited the Japanese city of Kyoto for two days of fun and excitement. For me the highlight of our trip was the visit to Maiko Transformation Studio Shiki in the pursuit of beauty, Japanese style. Studio Shiki provides kimono-dressing, makeup and photography services, essentially making you over like a maiko, an apprentice geisha. It was a little expensive, but I’ve wanted to do this for three years, and finally had an adventuresome friend who wanted to experience it with me!
The Transformation Process in four parts:
Part 1: The Finding
First we had to find the place! It was up in the outer parts of the city, very near to Kiyomizudera, the famous water temple. We walked and walked and walked, but every moment was appreciated because I’ve never been to that area before— lots of winding narrow streets and traditional buildings, with the unexpected pagoda or temple hidden in different corners, evocative of old town Kyoto. We finally found the studio down this little staircase on a very busy (but tiny) tourist street.
Part 2: The Stripping
After checking in, we were divested of our outerwear and handed a basket full of undergarments and special tabi socks. We snuck into the locker room, only to find ten other women already crammed into it! Good thing we’re all comfortable with getting undressed in front of total strangers (I knew those many hours spent luxuriating at the onsen would come in handy sometime). We had to put on this little cotton robe with a very deep v-neck in front and back… and then scamper up the stairs to the 3rd floor in out newly applied split-toed socks.
Part 3: The Making (Up)
We then waited in line with a bunch of other women, each with different stages of their makeup put on. First, a hair net is applied and your face de-oiled and rubbed down with wax, which helps the white makeup stay on (those ladies know how to apply lotion—what strong hands they have!). Next, we moved to the “ghost” station, where the layer of plain white makeup is applied. Except for the back of the neck with its two-pointed fence shape, applying the white layer is a bit like painting a barn—you close your eyes and they draw this big flat brush over every surface. Two big buffer pads are used to polish it all up, taking off the extra and making sure it’s in every nook and cranny of your eyes, nose and mouth. When I finally opened my eyes I had to force my eyelids open—they were glued together! Next we moved to color: beautiful cherry blossom pink applied to the flat white with red and black accents. What a price to pay in the pursuit for beauty. Next on to wardrobe!
Part 4: The Robing
We got to pick our own kimono! It was so cool, the room full of long-sleeved kimono, very long and of every color of the rainbow with different motifs. All fall styles, of course! It’s important with traditional dress to wear motifs and colors that reflect the seasons. There were sage greens with golden Japanese maple (momiji) leaves, purples with wheeled carts, rich browns with chrysanthemum… so many to choose from. Over 100 pieces of kimono were available. After making our selection we were led to the dressing room. In what proved to be a lengthy process, we were then strapped down with padding and tied into our kimono (don’t ask for details, regular kimono is ridiculously complicated to wear, and geisha style is even more convoluted) and selected our obi, the large sash. Our transformation was complete with as we were crowned with our maiko-style wig (quite heavy) and, slipping into large wooden clogs (called okubo), we ventured outside to display our finery.
We walked leisurely outside while enjoying the beautiful surroundings of old town Kyoto, the stone-paved streets with traditional Japanese-style houses along each side. The area surrounding Studio Shiki was packed with enthralled visitors, oohing and ahhing over our outfits and makeup. We were stopped repeatedly with polite requests for photographs. At least 15 people asked to take a photo with us!
What an incredible experience to walk the streets of old Kyoto, swathed in silk kimono and richly embroidered obi, with snow-white powdered face and red-painted lips, shimmering trinkets in my hair. It made me feel very much a Japanese “woman of arts”, which is exactly what a geisha is—a woman trained in the traditional arts of Japan such as flower arranging, poetry, dance, music and song. What a wonderful feeling to share in this rich cultural heritage.
~MS the Cooperative Effort